Kawasaki TH34 Service And Repair
Kawasaki TH34 Workshop Manual for the Kawasaki Bushcutter Trimmer engine found on several tools including Kaaz. Repair and service the Kawasaki TH34 with this manual. The manual has diagrams and accurate information as used by mechanics and repair shops to troubleshoot and repair the TH34. View free page images online or download a full PDF that you can print or view on all suitable devices.
The Kawasaki TH34 workshop manual has clear pictures and diagrams to help with repairs and servicing. May be used as a guide for other models as they may share key components such as motors.
Kawasaki TH34 Engine Specifications
Dimension Overall Length (mm)- 173 x 224 x 249
Width x Height (in)-(6.8 x 8.8 x 9.8)
Weight* kg (lbs)- 2.7 (6.0)
Engine-Forced air-cooled 2-stroke single cylinder gasoline engine
Displacement ml- 33.3 (2.03)
Bore x stroke mm 37 x 31
carburetor Diaphragm type
Ignition type- Solid state ignition
Spark plug- NGK BPMR6A
Starting- Recoil starter
Cluch type mm- Automatic centrifugal type
Clutch drum bore mm- 78
Air cleaner Dry type (Polyurethane form element)
fuel Regular unleaded gasoline 50:1 2-stroke engine oil (JASO-FC class)
Tank capacity- 0.8
Kawasaki TH34 Workshop Manual Contents
Idling Speed, Periodic Maintenance Chart, Tightening Torque Clearance Table, Setting Table, Clutch, Fuel Tank, Air Cleaner, Carburetor, Muffler, Recoil Starter, Ignition, Coil, Flywheel, Cylinder, Piston, Crankcase, Crankshaft.
Idling Speed Adjustment
A case that the cutting head or the cutting blade is installed with a
drive shaft in the engine, the idling speed adjustment should proceed
Start the engine and leave it running at idling speed to warm it up
If the engine stops while idling, turn the throttle stop screw [A]
clockwise until the cutting head or the cutting blade begins to rotate.
Then back off one-half turn. The cutting head or the cutting blade
must not rotate.
If the cutting head or the cutting blade rotates when the engine Is
idling, turn the throttle stop screw counterclockwise until the cutting
head or the cutting blade stops rotating and then turn the throttle stop
screw another one-half turn.
Kawasaki TH34 Troubleshooting Guide
Pulling recoil starter grip would not cause enough compression-Wear in the piston, Wear in piston ring, Wear or deformation of the cylinder bore, Poor tightening of the cylinder and spark plug.
After making several starting attempts, it is found, on removing the spark plug, that electrodes are still dry-No fuel in the fuel tank, Clogging of dust or entry of air in fuel pipe, Clogged fuel tank cap air vent and breather, Foul fuel filter in the fuel tank, Air entering at gasket fitted to carburetor flange, Clogged carburetor needle jet or main jet.
After making several starting attempts, it is found, on removing the spark plug, that electrodes are excessively wet-Faulty starter button pushing (ln summer, or when the engine is warm, starter button pushing gives too rich mixture), Overflow of fuel from carburetor, Clogged air cleaner.
On removing the spark plug, moisture condensed on spark plug electrodes-Mixture of water into fuel, Deterioration in fuel because of poor long-term storage, Use of fuel other than designated.
Make spark check. No spark but spark appears on spark plug replaced-Electrodes are burned and damaged to cause the too wide gap, Much carbon bridging electrodes gap, Small foreign matter being caught between electrodes, Faulty insulation of electrodes.
No spark in any spark plug, but spark appears when the end of high tension cord is touched to engine block-Faulty contacting at spark, plug cap.
No fuel drains into the return pipe in spite of several priming operation-Clogging in fuel tube at the inlet side, Broken tube at the inlet side, Air leakage from joint part of fuel tube at
the inlet side, Adhesion of dust to check valve of priming pump, Broken check valve of priming pump or damaged seat surface of pump cover, Air leakage from the fitting area of priming pump, Broken priming pump, Air leakage from main check valve, Loosen main diaphragm cover, Broken main diaphragm.
Fuel drains into the return pipe by priming operation, but the engine does not start-Clogged air filter, Clogged needle jet, Overflow of fuel from needle jet to the venturi of carburetor.
After starting, the engine revolution does not continue-Clogged pulse passage, Improper height of control lever.
No spark or very weak spark at the end of high tension on cord-Engine switch lead wire is jammed, Short circuit in engine switch, Recoil starter revolution is lower than that igniter begins to work, Wiring of coil coming short-circuited or disconnect, Engine switch lead wire is jammed, Flywheel demagnetized.
When the throttle valve is opened gradually, revolution speed drops at some position or engine stops, Clogging in carburetor inside, Foul fuel filter, Faulty carburetor gasket, Incomplete fitting of carburetor.
When spark test of the spark plug is made with recoil starter rope pulled, a spark appears very week-Faulty insulation of spark plug, Foul electrodes, Faulty magneto, Faulty ignition coil.
The loaded operation causes revolution fluctuation with big frequency-Clogged fuel tank cap air vent and breather, Dust clogging in or entry of air into fuel pipe or carburetor.
Unstable idling and the running does not continue-Air entering the engine through the fitting part of carburetor, Too low idling speed (rpm), Clogged main check valve, Clogged needle jet or main jet, Improper height of control lever.
The engine does not accelerate in spite of opening throttle valve-Clogged air filter, Clogging in fuel tube at the inlet side, Fuel passage or pulse passage of fuel pump is clogged, Clogged needle jet or main jet, Clogged main check valve, Improper height of control lever.
Unstable revolution at the high speed-Clogged air filter, Clogged in fuel tube at the inlet side, Fuel passage or pulse passage of fuel pump is clogged, Clogged needle jet or main jet, Clogged main check valve, Improper height of control lever.
Same as “Hard Starting”-Same as “Hard Starting”.
Engine overheated-Clogged air cleaner, Carbon deposit inside the combustion chamber, Inappropriate mixing ratio (too little oil), Broken cooling fan blade, Dirt or dust attached to cooling fins of the cylinder, Grass or dirt attached to cooling air passage and flywheel blade.
Thick smoke issues from exhaust port-Same as “Hard Starting”, Carbon deposit narrows
exhaust passage and muffler, Excessive oil mixed.
Engine knocking-Inferior fuel.
Abnormal Engine Noises
Piston Slapping-Cylinder and piston ring wear, Wear and/or deformation in the piston, Carbon deposit inside the combustion chamber, Wear in piston pin and connecting rod small end bearing, Wear in piston and piston pin.
Connecting rod noise-Wear in large and small end bearings.
Surging-Foul air cleaner, Dust clogging in or air entry into fuel pipe, Clogged fuel tank cap air vent and breather, Clogged carburetor.
Fuel Leakage from Carburetor
Fuel leak from carburetor-Foreign matter attached to the needle valve and/or valve seat, Correction or wear in needle valve and/or valve seat, Poor tightening of diaphragm gasket.
Excessive Fuel Consumption
Same as “Hard Starting”-Poor compression.
Sufficient compression but excessive fuel consumption-Too rich fuel mixture, Inferior fuel, Foul air cleaner, Too high idling speed.
Same as “Fuel Leakage from Carburetor”-Same as “Fuel Leakage from Carburetor”.
Engine Stops during Operation
Difficulty in cranking, or seizure-Excessively lean fuel mixture (too little fuel), Inferior lubricating oil mixed, Excessive carbon deposit in the combustion chamber, Dust accumulation on cooling fins of the cylinder.
Cranking is an easy-Faulty spark plug, Faulty magneto, Looseness in connections, Faulty ignition coil.
More detailed service and repair information can be found in Kawasaki TH34 workshop manual download.
Kawasaki TH34 Workshop Manual PDF
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