Zama Carburetor Manual Cube

$0.00

Zama Carburetor Manual C1U, C1Q, C1M, C2, C3, C3A, C3M and Parts List for repair and service of Zama carburetors. View free images online or download full PDF which is viewable on all devices and printable.

 

Zama Carburetor Cube Repair And Service

Zama Carburetor Manual Cube C1U, C1Q, C1M, C2, C3, C3A, C3M and Parts List for the correct identification, repair and service of the Zama Cube carburetors found in trimmers, chainsaws, blowers and other machinery. View free online images or download the full Zama Carburetor Manual PDF which can be printed or saved on any suitable device. Clear diagrams and information to help in parts ordering or repair of this Zama series carburetor. Identify all component parts of the Zama carburetor.

Zama Carburetor Manual Cube

Carburetor Models covered in this workshop manual are:

Zama C1U

Zama C1Q

Zama C1M

Zama C2

Zama C3

Zama C3A

Zama C3M

The Zama model number is stamped on the body of the carburetor.

 

ZAMA CUBE CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY AND SERVICE

MIXTURE SCREWS

Remove idle and main mixture screw.
Inspect each screw for damage, especially the needle points which should have no deformation of the tapered surfaces.
A damaged needle or seat will result in a very sensitive needle. The needles will be difficult to adjust and the carburetor will always run too rich or too lean.
Note: On dual needle carburetors the L and H needle are not interchangeable. Remember that the L needle is always longer.

FUEL PUMP

FOR LA/LB TYPE:
Remove fuel strainer cover and strainer.
Remove the pump diaphragm and pump gasket.
Inspect pump diaphragm, replace if diaphragm shows any signs of wear or curling.
Remove the metering chamber cover.
Remove metering diaphragm and metering chamber gasket.
Inspect the metering diaphragm for dirt and foreign matter. Remove pump cover screws and pump cover.

FOR ALL OTHER TYPES: C1U, C1Q/M, C2, C3, C3A/M

Remove pump cover screws and pump cover or primer body.
Remove the pump gasket and pump diaphragm.
Inspect pump diaphragm, replace if diaphragm shows any signs of wear, wrinkles or tears.
Remove strainer.

METERING DIAPHRAGM

Remove screws and metering chamber cover or primer body.
If the metering diaphragm is hooked type, remove it,
being careful to unhook it from the metering lever.
Remove metering chamber gasket.
Inspect the metering diaphragm for dirt and foreign matter.

INLET NEEDLE VALVE

If the carburetor is equipped with a plastic metering disk, remove it carefully. The disk must be smooth and free from cracks or chipped edges. The center tip that fits into the metering lever hole must be secure and not broken or worn.
The following instructions apply to all models.
Remove metering lever screw.
Remove metering lever, pin, metering lever spring and inlet needle valve.
Inspect the metering lever. It should not be worn where it contacts the inlet needle valve and metering disk.
Inspect inlet needle valve. The tip should not be deformed where it contacts the seat.

WELCH PLUG

Under the extreme conditions of a clogged idle port and channel, it may be necessary to remove the welch plug. Do this operation very carefully. If the carburetor is equipped with the priming pump, do not attempt to remove the welch plug unless you are certain the check valve in the idle chamber is malfunctioning.
Use a small 2/32 to 3/32 inch diameter sharp-pointed punch to pierce the welch plug.
Just below the welch plug, there is a thin casting wall where the idle and secondary holes are located. Punching through this area will ruin the carburetor body casting. Let the punch just pierce the welch plug, then carefully pry the welch plug out of the body casting.
If the carburetor is equipped with the plastic filling in the idle chamber, it will be unusable when the welch plug is removed. So, replace the plastic filling.
Note: It is often unnecessary to remove the welch plug. Test for plugged progression holes by spraying carb cleaner into the L needle hole. If cleaner sprays out the progression holes there is no need to remove the welch plug.

NOZZLE
Test the main nozzle by blowing air by mouth through the H needle feed hole with a small hose. With the needle open 2 turns open air should flow through, but you should not be able to suck air back.
Before removing nozzle assembly, make sure the main mixture screw was already removed.
If the carburetor is equipped with a pressed-in nozzle assembly, do not attempt to remove it unless you are certain it is malfunctioning. If it is necessary to remove, carefully press it out with steel rod or punch slightly smaller in diameter than the nozzle.
If the carburetor is equipped with a screw in nozzle assembly, remove it in the same way as a normal
screw.
If the carburetor is equipped with the strainer and C-ring type, remove main welch plug, then remove C-ring and retainer. It is not necessary to remove the nozzle.
The strainer and retainer type is not repairable. Clean them using gasoline and compressed air.
CARBURETOR BODY

Clean the carburetor body. Channels can be cleaned by blowing through the idle and main adjusting orifices with spray carburetor cleaner. Do not soak in dip tank-type cleaner. Do not use wires or drills to clean orifices. Inspect the operation of the throttle valve and lever.
REASSEMBLY

* Replace all worn parts and make sure that all parts are clean before they are reassembled into carburetor body.
NOZZLE

Make sure the main mixture screw was removed, before reassembling the nozzle assembly.
If nozzle assembly is a pressed in type, put a light oil film on the outside of the nozzle check valve cage.
Carefully press the nozzle into the carburetor body until it is just flush with the metering chamber.
If the carburetor is a strainer and C-ring type, install the strainer and C-ring. Lay the main welch plug into the cavity and press it firmly with a flat end punch to expand it tightly against the sides of the cavity.
If nozzle assembly is a screw-in type, reassemble in the same way as a normal screw.
WELCH PLUG

Lay the welch plug into the cavity. If the welch plug is a circle shape, press it firmly with a flat end punch to expand it tightly against the sides of the cavity. If the welch plug is oblong shape, press it firmly with an oblong punch.
Lay the welch plug into the cavity. Press it firmly with the oblong punch. It is best to use a sealer for sealing around the welch plug.
INLET NEEDLE VALVE

Inspect the metering lever and the pin.
Assemble the lever onto the pin and rotate the pin. The lever should fit easily on the pin and not stick.
Install the inlet needle valve, metering spring, metering lever, pin and retaining screw.
Adjusting the metering lever. The Zama “Z” gauge is designed to adjust all models. Hold the gauge against the body as shown using the proper side designated for the model you are adjusting. The end of the metering lever should touch the gauge. A straight edge can also be used as described on the next page.
(A) If the metering lever is the same as Figure a in the following schematic, place a straight edge or Zama Z gauge across the carburetor body. The free end of the metering lever should be 0 to 0.3 mm – 0 to 0.012″ below the straight edge.
(B) If the metering lever is the same as Figure b in the following schematic, the free end of the metering lever should be flush with the cavity floor. (1.7mm to 2.0 mm – 0.067″ to 0.078″ below the metering gasket flange of carburetor body).

Zama Carburetor Manual  Cube C1U, C1Q, C1M, C2, C3, C3A, C3M- PDF

* Online preview

 

Reviews

There are no reviews yet.

Be the first to review “Zama Carburetor Manual Cube”

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *